With the fine dust, it makes sense that the service period is even less and I find if you wait much longer, you tend to get creaking. Yes, I'll get into creaking and how to fix and prevent that in just a bit. Some tips to try and get the most ride time between services, and the best one for your entire bike, and especially any moving part like the cranks and bottom bracket, is to just keep it clean.
After a ride, give the area a wipe down, try to floss out any dust or grit that might be sitting around any parts. This will help keep dust from working its way into the areas to cause wear and create creaking. Along the same lines, I would give your bike a wash every couple of rides. The grease works as a waterproof barrier and keeps the parts inside clean and the crap on the outside out. No, your local mechanic doesn't suck.
Well, at least I hope they are good, but that's just a part of riding bikes in the dirt. With lots of spinning parts, creaking, ticking, popping, squeaking, or whatever other noise your bike might make is common and happens to most, if not all, bikes. When your bike creaks, everyone jumps to the bottom bracket as the issue, especially if they have a pressfit bottom bracket.
To try to diagnose your creaking, there are two simple tricks, and I'll try to explain these as best as possible. First, you will be pushing on the cranks from side to side.
To do this, stand on the drive side of the bike with the drive side crank at the bottom, or pedal closest to the ground. Then tilt the bike away from you a bit and give it a decent push, maybe two. I would go to the other side of the bike and do the same thing. Try to get it to happen both ways. That will let you know it's something taking a side load and is either loose or a dirt contact surface. The other way to find a creak easily is to stand on either side of the bike.
If you get any creaking or popping here that is most likely the headset or shock mounts, and not the bottom bracket or lower suspension pivots. Many of these noises can be solved by a simple clean and re-grease of that part that you think is creaking.
The headset is a very common part to get creaking, and the bearings are normally still good, with maybe a little dirt on the contact surface areas. Pulling that apart similarly to how we will do the bottom bracket is also great maintenance and can get rid of the noise you found.
When it comes time to replace or upgrade your bottom bracket, not only is finding the correct bottom bracket to work for your bike key, but there are also oftentimes many options to choose from. Many times the crank manufacturers make the bottom bracket you need and that is often the best and safest choice to choose from.
You can also see if the manufacturer makes a ceramic option if you want to go that route. That is my first suggestion and for the most part, will work great without any issues. Next would be to go to a manufacturer that makes bottom brackets for all frame styles and crank standards.
Wheels Manufacturing will likely be about the same or better quality than your stock bottom bracket, with quality bearings and seals. I find these work really well and I would suggest these for most mountain bike style riding.
Ceramic Speed makes some very fancy bottom brackets and is certainly not for the shy of price, as the name suggests, they are all ceramic bearings. I am currently running one on my gravel bike and I have never had a bottom bracket spin so freely.
If that translates to easier pedaling, it's hard to say, but I will say just by spinning the cranks you can tell Ceramic Speed bearings are the highest quality out there.
One thing to note with Ceramic is that the service interval I mentioned above will be cut in half or less, and will require a bit more work as well than what we are doing here in this How-To. First, make sure you have the correct tools.
I like to layout the tools I think I am going to use, as well as some grease and paper towels. If your bike is especially dirty maybe some cleaning solution as well. I find laying out a clean organized workspace makes working on the hardest jobs easier, especially since you know where to find your tools fast. This process is called knolling. If you want to nerd out on some tool slang and how to be an organized mechanic, look that up.
Next, you will remove your crankarm. Most new cranks only have one crankarm that is removable, so make sure you are going to remove the correct one. Most cranks use an 8mm hex wrench and also most new cranks are self-extracting. This means that you will need to loosen your crank and continue to loosen the crank until it comes off. Marko Full Member. Hth Marko Posted 10 years ago.
Shimano HT2 BBs can be had for a tenner and last for ages. But your looking at lugging about quite a bit of extra oil or Grease… Posted 10 years ago. Punching the bearing out with two sockets.
Ecky-Thump Free Member. PJM Free Member. I managed to dribble some light gear oil down there anyway. DezB Full Member. You need to faff with some of this, not different engineering my man… Posted 10 years ago. Zulu-Eleven Free Member. With the BB bearings out of the bike we can start to clean and regrease them. So take this first step really easy.
Using the small flat screwdriver, gently lever the outer seal away from the bearing cup. If you do this gently and slowly the seal will pop out. If you rush this step or are heavy of hand this seal will crack. With the outer seal removed you can then take a sharp blade and very, very gently peel the inner lip seal from the bearing.
You can use either a detergent or light degreaser and your brush to remove all the sand, grit and corruption from the bearing. Next, flush the bearing with water at normal pressure. Once the bearing is completely clean, dry with a rag or a hairdryer and then apply a film of grease around the bearing.
Remember not to use a grease that is too thick or the bearing will have too much friction, which will make you fit but do nothing for the performance of your bike. A way of checking this is to can lift the seal and have a look to see if there is enough grease under it. Next you can then press the outer seal back into place being careful to place even pressure around its circumference to avoid cracking the seal as its quite brittle.
Your bearings have now been serviced. Clean thoroughly, then re-grease the threads on the frame and bottom bracket. For stubborn cartridge bottom bracket squeaks, use Teflon tape on the threads. Then, reinstall, putting a drop of Green Loctite on the threads.
Press fit bottom brackets are trickier to service. Also, you'll need to apply press fit retaining compound before installing it, like the one from Park Tool.
Chipped paint on the threads or the face where the frame and bottom bracket meet can also cause noise. To fix it, the bottom bracket should be faced with a facing tool. Or, in a pinch, remove remaining paint with a razor. Just beware, a slip of the razor means a frame gouge, and possible frame-threatening damage, so you have to be extra careful.
You can also check to see if the noise is coming from your headset or stem by applying force to your handlebar and rocking it back and forth. If yes, disassemble both, clean, and then regrease.
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