True, our skin goes through a natural exfoliating process daily, but with lack of sun protection and age, that process of shedding tends to slow down—or end altogether. So, a little help from some exfoliating products is often needed for glowy skin.
Knowing exactly what these exfoliating acids are, how they differ, and exactly what their glow-worthy benefits are can help you attain the skin of your dreams. To get some intel, we tapped two board-certified dermatologists for some insight: Kenneth Howe and Orit Markowitz. Meet the Expert. Use this easy-to-follow guide to figure out the differences between AHA and BHA and how to choose the right option for your skin.
AHA stands for alpha-hydoxy acid. Among AHAs is glycolic acid, which, according to Howe, is the smallest of the AHAs, is derived from sugar cane, and is the most widely used type in skincare products. Markowitz notes that AHAs are generally recommended for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin, thanks to their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within the skin. AHAs have a number of benefits.
For one, they target all areas of the skin. They do this by gently cleaving the retained bonds between dead skin cells. Once cut loose, those cells can then fall off, or exfoliate. AHAs also help stimulate collage production, making it ideal for those wanting to reduce the appearance of fine lines.
BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid. That ever-popular acne-busting ingredient, salicylic acid? Yep, that's a BHA. Users of BHAs will reap the skin-calming properties of the acid it gets bonus points for being gentle enough for sensitive skin types, including those prone to redness or rosacea. This rings true with the most familiar type of BHA, salicylic acid, too. He also says the salicylic acid is known to fight bacteria and can be used to treat calluses and other areas of dry skin.
These studies confirmed previous industry studies indicating that applying AHAs to the skin results in increased UV sensitivity. After four weeks of AHA application, volunteers' sensitivity to skin reddening produced by UV increased by 18 percent.
Similarly, the volunteers' sensitivity to UV-induced cellular damage doubled, on average, with considerable differences among individuals. However, the studies also indicated that this increase in sensitivity is reversible and does not last long after discontinuing use of the AHA cream. One week after the treatments were halted, researchers found no significant differences in UV sensitivity among the various skin sites.
The studies did not identify exactly how AHAs bring about the increased UV sensitivity, although the effects did not appear to involve dramatic increases in UV-induced damage to DNA in the skin.
Previous FDA studies have indicated that a cosmetic-type cream base caused an AHA to penetrate more deeply into the skin when compared to an AHA solution without the usual cosmetic ingredients. However, further studies will be needed to learn how much, if at all, those cosmetic-type ingredients influence the AHA-related effects on UV sensitivity. This study determined that glycolic acid did not affect photocarcinogenesis the development of cancer cells associated with exposure to light in mice, and that salicyclic acid had a photoprotective effect protected against the effects of light in mice.
FDA continues to review available data on AHAs to address the potential for this increased skin sensitivity to the sun. It is important to follow directions carefully and heed any warning statements on the label when using any cosmetic product. Alpha-hydroxy acids AHAs are a group of plant and animal-derived acids used in a variety of skincare products.
These include daily anti-aging products, such as serums, toners, and creams, as well as occasional concentrated treatments via chemical peels. There are seven types of AHAs commonly used in products available throughout the skincare industry.
These include:. Research on the uses and efficacy of AHAs is extensive. However, out of all the AHAs available, glycolic and lactic acids are the most promising and well researched. These two AHAs are also less likely to cause irritation. AHAs are primarily used to exfoliate your skin. In fact, this is the foundation for all of the other benefits AHAs offer. Exfoliation refers to a process where the skin cells on the surface shed off.
This helps remove dead skin cells but also makes way for new skin cell generation. As you age, your natural skin cell cycle slows down, which can make dead skin cells build up.
When you have too many dead skin cells, they can accumulate and make your complexion look dull. Still, not all AHAs have the same exfoliating power. The amount of exfoliation is determined by the type of AHA you use. As a rule of thumb, the more AHAs contained in a product, the more powerful the exfoliating effects.
This peel contains glycolic acid and may be used up to two times per week for best results. When these acids exfoliate your skin, dead skin cells are broken down. The new skin revealed beneath is brighter and more radiant. AHAs with glycolic acid can help break down skin cell accumulation, while products with citric acid can brighten your skin even further. It contains citric acid and aloe vera gel for both brightness and soothing effects.
Collagen is a protein-rich fiber that helps keep your skin plump and smooth. As you age, these fibers break down. Sun damage may also accelerate collagen destruction. This can result in sallow, sagging skin. Collagen itself is in the middle layer of your skin dermis. When the upper layer epidermis is removed, products such as AHAs can go to work on the dermis. AHAs may help promote collagen production by destroying old collagen fibers to make way for new ones.
AHAs are known for their anti-aging effects, and surface lines are no exception. All products featured on Allure are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Ready to feel more confident when reading your beauty products' ingredient labels? Enter, the Allure Ingredient Index. In this comprehensive guide, you'll find everything you need to know about the most in-demand and under-the-radar ingredients in your favorite skin-care products. When you think of a chemical peel , the first thing that may come to mind is Samantha Jones's unfortunate experience with one on Sex and the City.
If you know, you know. Scenes like this gave alpha hydroxy acids AHAs , the exfoliating foundation of these treatments, a reputation for being very harsh and initially making skin look, as Jones put it, "like beef carpaccio" — raw and pink all over. But times have changed and so have our thoughts about these ingredients, which is why skin-care aisles are currently filled with products containing AHAs like glycolic and lactic acids.
In addition to improved in-office peels, there's also now a seemingly endless amount of AHA-infused serums, creams, and cleansers that are suitable for a range of skin types and concerns. Let us and our favorite skin-care experts set the record straight on everything to know about alpha hydroxy acids. With this plethora of acids on the market, it can be hard for a layperson to understand how they differ, but according to Orit Markowitz, M.
Oil-soluble BHAs penetrate more deeply, which is why they're the gold standard for treating acne salicylic acid is the most commonly used BHA , while PHAs are molecularly larger and therefore gentler than AHAs when exfoliating on the surface.
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